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Where can you ski in the Alps in December and be sure there will be snow?
In the heart of the Trois Vallées—the world’s largest interconnected ski area, with 600 km of trails—Val Thorens holds a record: perched at an altitude of 2,300 meters, it is Europe’s highest ski resort. It is also one of the very few to open early, as early as November 21—perfect for those who can’t wait. A touch of arrogance in these times of climate uncertainty? Not at all, since 99% of the ski area lies above 2,000 meters, promising an early snowpack. And don’t worry: this natural snow cover is supplemented by an extensive network of artificial snowmaking. The resort goes even further: 3 Vallées lift passes valid for six days or more come with a snow guarantee in case the natural snow cover proves insufficient.
To make the most of this exceptional playground, the 5-star Altapura offers the ideal base. Situated right on the slopes in the aptly named Soleil neighborhood—easily recognizable by its unique architecture of wood and dry stone—this showcase of Alpine design, inspired by Charlotte Perriand, mirrors the resort’s opening.
As soon as we arrive on Friday evening, we settle into one of the 88 rooms and suites, each with a warm yet arty atmosphere. Through the floor-to-ceiling window, the Plein Sud chairlift is already whetting our appetite for some skiing. It’s time to pick up our lift passes and gear, which we’ve taken care to reserve at the By Goitschel ski shop located right inside the hotel.
On Saturday morning, after a hearty breakfast, we grab our gear from our warm lockers. The Altapura boasts the coveted “ski-in/ski-out” feature.
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It’s just a few steps to the Plein Sud chairlift, the gateway to the Val Tho’ slopes and the vast Trois Vallées ski area. Outside, the air is dry, and the sun is casting its first rays. The familiar click of your boot into the binding, your goggles carefully secured over your face—grab your poles!
Let’s face it, making the first tracks of the season is a ritual that true enthusiasts wouldn’t miss for anything in the world: fresh, light snow that lets the tips of your skis glide through the muffled silence of the mountains. Regulars then eagerly head to Cime Caron, at 3,195 m: Val Thorens’ iconic peak offers a 180° panorama of the Alps’ most beautiful summits. Greet La Meije and the Aiguilles d’Arves, the Bouchet and Chavière glaciers, with the unbeatable silhouette of Mont Blanc in your sights. All that’s left is to hurtle down the Combe de Caron—a 900-meter descent on this black run—to experience those first thrills.
Written by Pascale Missoud
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